Growers’ Guide
At Burchell Nursery, we’re always striving to bring you the high-quality trees you need for your business, from patented and commercially successful peaches to virus-free almonds to container trees that you can plant whenever you choose. We’ll spend the time it takes to give you our best. Please report to us at once if any trees are found to be otherwise.
The first year is the most important in any young planting. Give your orchard the best care you know how, and you will be amply repaid. If fumigation is a part of your ground preparation, the best time to fumigate is September through the middle of November.
Protect the roots of trees from drying and freezing
When trees arrive, “heel-in” by digging a trench 12″–15″ deep and 3’–4′ wide in a Weil-drained location. Cover roots with fine soil, pressing firmly, and water thoroughly. If the nursery stock is to be planted within 2 or 3 days, it may be kept safely in a closed building, provided roots are sprinkled twice daily.
Plant trees
Have the ground well prepared by backhoeing, if necessary; fumigating, ripping, discing and harrowing.
Dipping or spraying tree roots with commercial preparations of Agrobacterium culture is a good practice for preventing crown gall. Cultures can usually be ordered and purchased from your chemical supplier.
Plant trees no deeper, and preferably shallower, than they stood in the nursery. Planting too deep favors Crown Rot disease. Dig holes large enough to accommodate roots. If land has been ripped, have soil firm in the bottom of the hole, to prevent settling.
Slant trees into the prevailing wind, so that at cut-off height (28″–32″ above ground) they lean 3″–6″. Do not lean too far.
Prune off only excessively long or broken roots. Roots should be spread into their natural position. Press soil firmly around the roots to eliminate air pockets, especially in the lower half of the hole. Even better, fill the hole 3/4 with loose soil and settle around the roots with 4 gallons of water. When it soaks in, finish filling the hole. Roots must always have ample moisture.
Commercial planters generally do a good job. There have been times when trees have been jammed into small holes or trees have been left out to dry. Try to be present while your trees are being planted. Trees that do not start well are an expense that you and your nurseryman share alone.
Planting trees from cold storage or late in the season
Keep roots protected at all times. Keep covered and moist until actually planted. Do not leave roots exposed to sun or wind.
Plant trees carefully. Press fine, moist soil firmly around roots to eliminate air pockets. Form a basin for watering.
Prune trees immediately. (If leafed out, remove all leaves without injuring buds)
Water by tank the same day as planting. Apply ample water (5–10 gallons) to settle all air pockets.
Fill soil around the tree if settling has exposed roots.
Paint the whole tree with an interior white latex paint diluted with 25% water.
Put on tree protectors if you plan to spray herbicide around trees.
Re-water at appropriate time. Do not let the soil around the roots get dry, but do not overwater. Planting trees from cold storage can be very successful if proper care is given.
Fertilize trees after planting
Put no fertilizer in the hole with the roots. However, four measured ounces of sulfate of ammonia may be applied immediately after planting. Sprinkle fertilizer in a band 6″ wide, keeping 12″ away from the base of the tree. Repeat in 60–90 days with irrigation.
Prune Fruit and Almond Trees
Roots: Prune off only excessively long or broken roots.
Prune tops in mid-February. Cut trunks of trees that are to be mechanically harvested 28″–32″ above ground. (pic A)
Peach and nectarine trees are often cut lower. (pic B)
Plant, prune and paint Walnut Trees
Trees should be cut to 4’–5′ at the time of planting.
Always use water to settle soil and eliminate air pockets around walnut tree roots to complete the planting.
In mid-March, recut to 6″–10″ above graft or bud union. Cover the cut with Tree Seal. Paint trees from ground level to
top using white INTERIOR latex paint; water soluble. Dilute with 25% water. (pic C)
A word about tree protectors
Tree protectors have been used for many years as a way of protecting newly planted trees. However, in some rare cases,
they have been known to cause localized sunburn. The best protection for the prevention of sunburn damage is to paint trees
from ground level to top using white latex paint; water soluble — diluted with 25% water.
Replanting the orchard trees
Site preparation after removal of a tree
Remove as many of the existing roots as possible from the previous tree. Ideally, all roots with a diameter greater than 1/2″ should be removed. Dead roots can be a host for nematodes, oak root fungus, and other organisms.
Deep rip or backhoe to loosen soil and break any existing layering of soil, such as hard pan or plow pan. Loose soil needs to be settled before planting to ensure that the newly planted tree does not settle and become planted too deep. Fumigate the site to kill any organism that may exist in the soil or small roots left from the previous tree.
Planting
The hole should be large enough to accommodate the roots. If the hole is dug by an auger, it is important to break down the sides of the hole to eliminate soil glazing. If sides are glazed, the situation is similar to planting into a plastic pot — root growth will be restricted.
Keep tree roots moist. If all trees cannot be planted in one day, then either “heel” the unplanted trees in moist soil or keep them in a closed building and cover the roots with moist burlap sacks. Always keep trees protected from the elements. Wind and sun can dry tree roots very quickly. Roots must also be protected from freezing temperatures.
Minimal pruning should be done to the roots. Roots that are broken or exceptionally long (and will not fit in the hole) are the only roots that need pruning.
Trees should not be planted any deeper than the depth they were planted in the nursery. A color change on the roots will indicate where the ground level was in the nursery. It is better for the tree to be planted slightly too high than too low. Trees planted too deep are more susceptible to crown rot.
Other tips:
In poorly drained soils, it is a good idea to plant trees on a berm or small mound.
If you are replanting in an area that has had problems with crown gall, the replant tree should be treated with Agrobacterium Radiocasted.
Trees should be watered with 2 to 3 gallons of water (depending on soil conditions) to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Fertilizer in the hole at planting is not recommended because it can cause new roots to be burned very easily.
In windy areas, leaning trees slightly into the prevailing wind may benefit growth.
Care for Newly-Planted Trees
Late-planted trees should be painted with white or light-colored interior latex paint (dilute with 25% water) to help prevent sunburning. Do not use oil-based paints because they can potentially burn the bark of the trees. Milk cartons or tree protectors can be put on the trees to help protect them from rodents and any harsh herbicides used for weed control.
It is important to keep competition with weeds to a minimum. Weed control can be accomplished chemically and/or mechanically. If done chemically, it is important to use herbicides that will not injure the trees. If weeding is done by hoe or some other mechanical means, be careful not to injure, or wound, the bark of the tree. Wounds can be an entry point for diseases such as crown gall.
Replants should be pruned immediately after planting. On peaches, nectarines and almonds, it is important to leave approximately two inches of growth on any limbs in the top foot. This will ensure there are buds in the areas you want to develop the scaffolds. Walnuts should be pruned back to no more than four buds of approximately 8″–12″. Summer pruning can be beneficial in directing growth.
Once newly planted trees have at least 10″–12″ of new growth, small amounts of fertilizer can be applied. Up to 4 ounces of a material like sulfate of ammonia or “tree & vine” fertilizer (15-15-15) may be used. It is best to give newly planted trees frequent, but light, applications of fertilizer.
Irrigation needs to be managed so that young trees receive adequate moisture, yet are not overwhelmed when the orchard is irrigated for the older trees. The first year is the most important in any young planting. Give your orchard the best care you know how. If you have any questions about planting and caring for your trees, please call your field representative.
Planting Patterns for Orchards
Square and Hedgerow Plantings – Trees per Acre
To find trees per acre in square or hedgerow plantings, locate your row spacing on the left-hand side of the chart and follow this line across to the column for your tree spacing, labeled at the top of the column.
Double Square Plantings – Trees per Acre
Square planting with a tree planted in the middle.
Triangle (Diamond) Plantings- Trees per Acre
All sides of the triangle are the same distance.
Suggested Care
Irrigation
There are a lot of irrigation systems for orchards. They each have their place according to soil type, topography and cost. Most irrigation systems designed for orchards will give the trees enough moisture they need to grow and survive, but not too much to cause root disease problems. There is a fine line between too much and not enough water especially when establishing a new orchard.
When planting a new orchard, it is best to have the irrigation system installed ahead of time before the trees are planted. Run the system for a few hours prior to planting to have good soil moisture. When planting either a bareroot tree or a potted tree, it is important that the soil is moist.
After the tree is planted, it is necessary to water the tree to remove air pockets and settle the soil around the roots. Run the irrigation system or deliver the water by tank to each tree and give it at least 2 gallons of water per tree. Once the tree is watered in, it might be necessary to come back and straighten the tree or add more dirt if it has settled. Watch the moisture carefully as too much will drown the tree and not enough will dry it out. Remember, if the tree is not growing it is not using any water, so adding more water will not encourage it to grow.
It is important to move drip lines away from the base of the tree and try to minimize the amount of water hitting the trunks directly because over time the water will soften the trunks and cause disease problems. Make sure that water does not stand around the base of the tree for more than a day.
Following these basic guidelines will help the tree get off to a good start.
Fertilization
After trees have at least 12″ – 15″ of new growth, scatter a ring of about 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of balanced fertilizer in a band 6″ wide around each tree, keeping 12″ away from the bases of the trees. To prevent over-fertilizing, use a tin can that holds just the right amount of material. Keep fertilizer at least 15″ – 18″ away from the trunk of the tree. We recommend a second and third application during the first Summer.
Summer Pruning
First year summer pruning is recommended for many types of fruit. Contact us for details. For more information about any of our recommendations, please contact your Healthy Start Trees® Field Representative.
Desirably shaped mature trees are the result of years of careful selection and training. A well-shaped tree provides convenience and economy in orchard management. If pruning is neglected until a tree is several years old, many severe cuts are often necessary to bring the tree into somewhat of the desired shape.
First winter pruning
At the end of the first summer, the tree may be from 4’–8′ tall. Usually, no heading is necessary. Heading means a cut such as (a) in Figure 1. A tall trunk is an advantage. Heading would tend to force out laterals too low on the trunk and therefore not desirable. Permanent lateral branches should be selected so that the lowest shall be no closer than 4 1 /2′ from the ground and preferably 5’–6′. Stakes to hold the tree into the wind are usually needed.
Summer pinching
Shoots developing below the desired level of the first permanent scaffold or branch should not be removed when they have developed. It’s better to pinch back the shoots when they attain a length of about 15″. Pinching back simply means to break off the tip. This leaf surface that is maintained will help to build the trunk and root system while at the same time protect the trunk from sunburn.
Second dormant pruning
At the second dormant pruning, all laterals below 5′ should be cut back to a 6″ stub as shown in Figure 2. At this pruning, there may or may not be any branches which are high enough to become permanent laterals. By not removing them completely at this time, the tree will benefit by the extra leaf surface the following season and will also receive sunburn protection.
It’s desirable that the lowest permanent lateral should be on the windward side of the tree. In Stanislaus County this branch is best located on the northwest side of the tree. This process of selecting the desired framework may take a two or three-year period. The tendency for most walnut varieties to spread and droop makes a high head desirable and does not result in a higher tree. A wide vertical spacing between the branches is preferred. A distance of about 2′ seems advisable.
Branches should be selected from wood that is at least one year younger than the trunk. Branches that are same age as the trunk are poor and easily split off. They should be removed entirely at the dormant pruning. Permanent branches should form a fairly wide angle with the trunk. These branches are more strongly attached and will form a sturdier framework.
Third Growing Season
During the third growing season, summer pinching may again be beneficial. Shoots arising from the lower portion of the trunk or from the stubs that were left at the winter pruning, should be pinched back when they attain a length of about 15″. Here again the extra leaf surface means a sturdier trunk and affords sunburn protection.
Third Dormant Pruning
During the third dormant pruning the selection of the permanent branches is usually completed. 4 or 5 branches that are well- distributed vertically along the trunk, such as in Figure 3, are enough. These should be evenly distributed around the trunk. Certain varieties, such as the Payne and Hartley, tend to set nuts laterally along the shoots. Long growing branches on these 2 varieties may have the tips headed back to prevent excessive weight during the 4th growing season. The growth resulting below the first permanent branch may again be cut back to a 6″ stub.
If the stubs from the previous year are getting very large, they should be removed completely. As to whether or not to remove a stub, a good rule to follow is this: A stub should be removed while it can still be done with pruning shears. If the stub is left for another year and a pruning saw will be needed, it should be cut off now.
Fourth and Subsequent Dormant Pruning
During, the fourth and subsequent dormant pruning, crossing and interfering branches should be removed. Usually all stubs should be removed by this time. Laterals from the permanent branches should be selected so as to form a tree such as in Figure 4.
